Confusion???

My last blog post my have given people the wrong idea. I HAVE NOT quit the trail. I have just taken week or two off to do some physical mending. My plan is to return to trail and attend the Trail Days celebration in Damascus VA on May 17-19. Connie will get me to a point on the trail so I can make Damascus in time for the AT's biggest PARTY event.

In the time off the trail I am revising my pack to a summer (lighter) mode. Leaving most of the cold weather gear home and breaking out the shorts and tees. I am also on a two hour feeding schedule trying to regain some of the 18-20 pounds I lost.

My first summer gear order from REI will arrive in Naples on May 1 so I can begin to repack after that. REI is also pleased about the expected jump in their sales for May.

"I shall return. "

Erwin TN. Mile 341.5. Sunday April 21

Connie is traveling to Erwin to pick me up so we can go to Naples FL to celebrate her mother's 90th birthday. The original plan was that she would get me on the 31st. The trail has a different schedule and time table.

The AT has taken a toll on my old body. In Hot Springs I stepped on a scale and am down 18 pounds. I eat but am not hungry. My energy level in the afternoon is low.

My knee is sore and somewhat swollen. It bothers me most on down hill portions of the trail. Have to take "baby steps" so knee does not feel like it will collapse.

I have lost most of my toe nails due to a shoe disaster in November. The problem occurred in November it just has taken this long to be resolved.

Bottom line - I still want to continue on the trail but I need to time to recover. I will not make it to Maine this year but 1100 miles to Harper's Ferry WVA seems possible. I hope that two weeks off will give me time to stage a comeback.

From the beginning I said I would continue as long as I was enjoying the experience. The experience is wonderful. I want to be like Arnold when he says "I'll be back".

Saturday Morning. Can it get better?

Oh yes it can! I slept to almost 7:30. An hour past my usual wake-up time. I have to get to Erwin TODAY; 11 miles out. Quickly packed my mostly wet gear knowing it would dry after I got to town.

The Boy Scouts were busy making breakfast. As I was leaving they said I could not leave without eating. Trail culture is that you do not ask someone for something to eat or a treat. However, if offered you do not say "no thanks". I chowed down. A Boy Scout version of an omelette with eggs, bacon, cheese and the taters left from last nights feast.

But wait - there's more. Just before town a fellow hiker was met by his parents. Yes, you guessed it, more trail magic. Home baked treats.

One more time. My destination is the Holiday Inn Express. It is a mile off the trail so I had to walk to it. When I arrived they were the finish line for a local 5K race. As part of the race event a BBQ dinner was provided. A runner who could not stay gave me her meal ticket.

What a day. It can't get much better.

Spivey Gap Mile 330.8

Really want to make it to town tomorrow. Made dinner and was settling in when I heard voices, lots of voices. The campsite is next to a road and parking lot. Since it was Friday night my first thought was - high school kids were going to party at MY campsite. Turned out it was a troop of Boy Scouts. Boy Scouts have a terrible reputation on the AT as being general pests and overly annoying.

Could not have been more mistaken. As soon as I slowly made my way out of the tent (slowly is the ONLY way I get out of the tent) the adult leader asked me if I wanted to eat dinner with them. Why yes I replied and it was GAME ON. Dinner was some type of trail concoction of smoked sausage, carrots, corn-on-the-cob, potatoes, cabbage (source of fibre) and apples. Cooked together in propane steamer. Sounds strange but it works. Topped off the feast with s'mores and went to bed a happy camper. Survived a hurricane and to bed with a full belly. Life can be full a surprises if you just let them happen.

Hurricane (part 2)

Left Big Bald shelter with a mile to hike to Little Bald. It looked promising as the sun was trying to make an appearance. Wrong! This was a hurricane and this was the eye of the storm. Half way up to Little Bald it really hit. Like walking into a wall of wind, rain, hail and fog. The trail turned into a mud soup. No way could I do anything I had planned. Bummer!

Slogged my way to Spivey Gap and a campsite. Arrived and got the tent set up, changed into dry clothes and got into my sleeping bag to warm up. Although the rain stopped and the wind slacked it was getting colder.

Hurricane!

The wind howled all night. As I was somewhat sheltered on the lee side of a hill it was not too bad. Wanted to make Little Bald as that is the place Nathan proposed to Rachel. Had been planning a special surprise for them over the last few days.

After the first hour of hiking all hell broke loose. Rain, fog and high winds. Been through this before, but it got worse.

A "bald" is a treeless expanse usually atop a mountain. Before you can get the Little Bald one must cross Big Bald. Big Bald is at 5500 foot elevation.

You have all seen TV images of the weatherman being buffeted by high winds and rain. Try hiking in it with a sail (pack) strapped to your back. Could not walk a straight line. Easily 75 mph winds with even higher gusts. Horizontal rain and fog only added to the experience.

Had lunch at Big Bald Shelter during a lull in the storm.

Wednesday April 17, I think...

One factor on the trail is time. It is quite easy to loose track of the day of the week or the date. Guess it does not really matter as you eat when you stop walking, go to bed when it is dark and wake up when it is light. Simple.

I was going to camp at the Meadow, mile 319.1. Since there was no water available I loaded up at the last water stop mile 315. By the time I got to the Meadow the wind was howling. Although mild temps prevailed, one had the sense that things were going to change. I went past the Meadow with the idea that I would stop at the next likely looking spot. As it was about an hour before dark I opted to bushwhack up an unmarked trail to find a place out of the wind to pitch the tent. Found one 50 yards off the AT and settled on for the night.

Elvis has left the house.

Just a quick post about some unique trail food.

As you leave Hot Springs there is a convenience store with a small short order grill. We had heard about their hiker special - a hamburger between two grilled cheese sandwiches. They also featured The Elvis. Three collision pad pancakes, bananas, peanut butter and bacon. Try as I could, I founded less than half way through. I think this was the only time I left food on my plate.

Flint Mountain. Mile 306.2

Three miles from the mountain top camp the trail gives you two options: Big Firescald Knob (rocky and strenuous) or a 1.5 mile bypass. In order to have the full AT experience I choose the Big Firescald Knob. 1.5 miles of climbing and crawling over wet rocks and boulders on the sheer face of a mountain. I would have taken pictures but the fog was so thick you could only see a few yards in front of you. Unbelievable! Quite the rush. Took almost two hours to scramble over the rocks.

After Big Firescald Knob the trail follows an old road bed for several miles. You pass several grave sites and small cemeteries. Although this is National Forest now, you realize that people lived and farmed here. Must have been a difficult life for a very sturdy people.

Passed the 300 mile mark at mid afternoon. Want to make Erwin TN by Saturday. Will take another zero day.

Camp Creek Bald. Mile 294.9

Due to outbreak of trail virus I have tried to avoid contact with other hikers as much as possible. Using lots of Sani-wipes and avoiding hand-mouth-eye contact. Do realize many times a day you rub your eyes or touch your mouth?

Tonight I camped atop a mountain. I shared my camp with a fire tower and some type of microwave tower. No problem until 3:15 am when the thunder storms started. Wind and lighting were intense. Flashes of lighting created a cartoon-like X-ray effect that was...freaky! You could hear the wind before it hit. Like a jet engine warming up. Then it hits your tent like someone is outside shaking it. You are only separated from the elements by a sheet of nylon and a few pieces of cord. Storm broke just before dawn and other than packing up a wet tent no problems.

Appalachian Spring

My last post was from Hot Springs NC. It was the best Zero day town yet. Hiker friendly, good food and plenty of it for reasonable prices. Did I mention cold beer? Hot Springs was a WW 1 German POW site. Very mild temps at lower elevations and the trees are leafed out and spring flowers in bloom. Hot Springs is at 1200 feet and I have been hiking at almost 4000 to 5000 foot elevation. Really makes a difference. Temps are 15 to 20 degrees cooler. The trees are just beginning to show a little color and early flowers a just beginning to bloom.

Sunday April 14th

Hot Springs is unique in that the AT runs right through town. The town depends on and caters to hikers. The sidewalks feature the AT logo through out the town. Did some resupply today and will head out for Erwin TN in the morning. Hope to continue 10 miles per day to make the 65 miles to Erwin in six days where I plan another zero day. Also that should get me through the virus zone.

Hot Springs NC. Mile 273.9

Left Walnut Mountain early with the goal of doing 13 miles into Hot Springs. Did the first 6 miles in record time, just short of three hours. Got into Hot Springs just after 3:30. Seems like every hiker on the AT had the same idea. All the hostels were full including the one I wanted to stay at with the gourmet vegetarian breakfast and dinner. So, plan "B" was... Camp out. Ten of us shared a campground in town with cold showers and flush toilets. Had a good dinner with reasonable prices. Downed two 22oz Fat Tires to celebrate my first 13 mile day. Actually more since I wondered aimlessly around town for an hour trying to execute plan B.

Did laundry and hung delicates on line to
Dry. At laundromat had some drama as some hiker put dirty clothes in dryer with soap. Don't think his mama learned him too well.

Virus Alert

Returned to trail Thursday morning, mile 250.6. Trail rumors are that a strain of 24 hour virus has been reported in the next five or six shelters. Vomit, fever and the "runs" are reported. Suggestion is you camp away from shelters and avoid contact with other hikers. Sounds awful.

Many hikers have trail dogs they travel with. Most of the dogs carry their own supplies.

Heading for Walnut Mountain mile 260.8. I must be getting stronger since I have been doing 10 mile days and still feel good at the end of the day.

Trail Magic Again

Rolling out of Standing Bear Farm my intent was to camp at Brown Gap mile 250.6. When I got there at 2:30, Apple (trail name) was manning a trail magic stop. He told me they were expecting sever weather tonight with tornado warning, high winds and hail. He offered to take some hikers into town to a motel to avoid the sever weather. One rule on the trail is... Stay dry. Since today is Connie's Birthday I tried to call her several times but was unable to get any service. So, in order to get two birds with one stone I took him up on his offer. A night in a dry motel sure beats a tornado in a tent. Also got to call Connie for her birthday.

Standing Bear Farm. Mile 240.8

This is a hostel that caters to thru-hikers. Quite the place, a cross between a 60's hippy commune and Ripley's Believe it or Not. Rocket, the owner is never without a cigarette and a Bud Lite. When you "check in" you get an envelope to keep track of what you buy. A beer is $2 or $2.50 depending on brand. There is a hiker store with everything from peanut butter to rolling papers. Just write what you take on the envelop. The shower had good hot water. Everyone was rather rank getting off the trail and the shower was appreciated.

Cosby Knob Shelter Mile 230.1

This will be my last night in the Smokies. The northern boundary of the park is mile 238.1. Many times the AT is referred to as "The Green Tunnel". Although the trees have not sprouted new leaves yet there are still some hints to what the GreenTunnel may look like.

I left the park at 12:30 today. The weather has turned unseasonally warm. Calm winds, sunshine have led to high 70's. very uncomfortable for hiking. Can drink enough water as it sweats out quickly.

Our Government at its Best

At one of the shelters the Park Service has built a brand new privy. I had heard about this privy being handicap accessible and wanted to see for my self. As advertised it is fully ADA compliant even though it is several miles from any trailhead or parking lot. I am sure that because it is in a National Park the law required the privy to be built this way but it seems to me that good money is just being poured down the toilet.

A Few Miles to go

Left Gatlinburg Monday morning. This sign was at the beginning of the trail. Headed for Peck's Corner Shelter mile 217.2. The weather has warmed considerably, even at the higher elevations. Most of the trail is at six thousand feet so there can be a large temperature swing from the lower elevation to the trail. Still some ice on the trail in the shade. Nothing like I experienced at Clingman's Dome.

Gatlinburg - Zero Day!

This place is a zoo. Thousands of tourists walking down town. Hundreds of tourist shops selling everything from olde time photos to tee shirts. Even saw "Magnet City". How have I lived this long without ever going to Magnet City?

They are having some type of pre-teen cheer/dance competition this weekend. Hundreds of heavily made up, besparkled pre-teens walking the streets like hookers in training. And the dance moms. Well the beer cans don't fall far from the trailer parks...

Stocked Up with supplies, showered, shaved and did laundry. Good choice of food in town but overpriced. This is a tourist town so to be expected. Gatlinburg is second only to Las Vegas in the number of wedding chapels.

Will be leaving Monday morning to get back on trail. Next planned stop is Hot Springs NC, 65 miles down the path.

I Didn't Get to be This Old by Being Stupid

Standing in the parking lot in full daylight looking stupid. Took the wrong trail. Way to go. Had to make amends. Hiked up to tower to pick up the AT again. The trails at the dome are quite popular. As a result the hiking path is two feet wide and at least a foot deep. It is also in deep pine tree shade. With all the snow of last week combined with heavy hiker traffic the trail was heavily iced, resembling a bobsled run. Seven miles to Newfound Gap and a shuttle to town and a much needed zero day in Gatlinburg.

Within the first two miles I fell at least ten times. Most of the falls were easy falls injuring only my macho pride. The last fall however really wacked my elbow. Came up on group of twenty something hikers one of which had fallen and dislocated his shoulder. Shorty thereafter met first response team going to assist. They told me that there was road access a quarter mile down the trail.

I was in real trouble. Did not want to hurt myself, break bones or do other bodily injury. But had to get off trail. Sat down for a drink of water. Heard a non-forest sound. Cars whizzing down the highway. Looked through the trees and there was the road. Bushwhacked through thirty yards of heavy steep woods to the road. Salvation! Heard next car. Stuck out thumb and it slowed and stopped. Bernie from St. Pete Fla was on his way to Newfound Gap to set up Trail Magic stop. Came within an eyelash of real tears. Could not believe this turn of events.

Got to Newfound Gap where Bernie and his wife fed me, baloney sandwich never tasted so good. Two Dunkin Donuts and a coke later the van driver from town gave me ride to town. I think this may be a sign my fortunes are changing

Sunrise at Clingman's Dome - Almost

Got up at 4:30 and prepared to hike to the highest point on the AT for the sunrise. Clear night and the stars looked like you could touch them. Night sky is amazing when there is no city light to interfere. Even as we were getting ready other hikers with headlamps came through the area on the trail. Sunrise was going to be an EVENT. Some hikers had been hiking since one A.M. To make the sunrise. Had my pack on when nature called. Had to answer the call. Well, time and tide wait for no one so I had to focus on making record time,for me, to welcome the day.

Hiking alone with a headlamp in the forest primeval is a surreal event. Every sense is at a high state of awareness. Was at a junction of two trails as the sky was beginning to lighten. Clingman tower .3 miles, bypass trail .6 miles. Wow, three tenths of a mile. I can do this.

My first clue was I was going down hill. The tower should be .3 miles up. Do I listen to my instincts? No. My second clue was a sign reading "Parking Lot .1 mile. Now, in full daylight I was standing in the parking lot still .5 miles from the tower.
Tourists were walking down from the tower to their cars. They DROVE here. I hiked. Where is the justice?

Double Springs Gap Shelter Mile 196

Awoke at Derrick Knob to freezing rain, sleet and overnight snow. All through the night ice would fall from the trees on to to tin roof of the shelter. Like pennies being dropped onto tin roof. Donned semi-dry rain gear and headed out. Misty rain and freezing fog accumulated on trees and fell off when wind blew. Blow down ice was half inch thick on trail. Weather finally broke about two o'clock as I pulled into shelter. Sun was out and took opportunity to try to dry gear. About 3 miles from Clingman's Dome, highest point on the AT. Talk at the shelter was to get up early and night hike to Clingman's Dome for the sunrise. Why not?

Thursday April 4. Mile 182.5

The talk at the shelter was - do we do 12 miles or 20 miles on Thursday? Heavy rain was predicted beginning in the P.M. People wanted to get to next shelter before the rain. Guess what? Rain before dawn. Lots of rain and fog and wind. Oh, forgot 35 degree temps. When I got to Derrick Knob Shelter, 6.3 miles away, most of the crew from the night before was already hunkered down. The trail to Derrick Knob is probably the most difficult in the park.

The shelter was designed for maybe 14 people. Two levels. Think we managed
20. Everyone and everything was wet. Rain gear may keep rain out but it also keeps sweat in. Either way you are wet. Lines were hung all over the shelter to try to dry clothing. Not to successful. Glad sleeping bag and pack contents stayed dry. No pictures today. Every knows what a rainy day looks like.

Easy Day

Have been pushing it for the last few days, 10-12 miles, so decided to just go to Spence Field Shelter at mile 181.5. Nice day in 60's and sunny. Got into shelter in early afternoon and did another bandana bath. Refreshing! Checked my feet as "this little piggy had none" right toe was bothering me. Toe was red and sore. Toenail was ready to come off so I just helped a bit. Looked REALLY BAD. Antibiotic and taped. Hope for the best.
My pack is beginning the chafe my hips. I guess I have lost some protective fat. Taped my hips with hot pink kinesio-tape Stylin' baby!

Great Smoky Mountain National Park

Mile 167.1 Fontana Dam marks the southern entrance to GSMNP. Hiked just over eleven miles to Mollies Ridge Shelter. In the park you must stay in the shelters. Most of the shelters have "toilet areas" as opposed to privies. The toilet areas are called minefields for obvious reasons. Gained over 3000 feet in elevation today.
A number of shelters in GSMNP used to have wire fencing on the open side of the three sided structure. The fencing was to protect the hikers/campers from bears. Problem is that people were feeding bears through the fence. Idiots. Most fences are gone. Lots of section hikers within the park. No bears yet - good.

Fontana Hilton Mile 164.6

The shelter at Fontana Dam is called The Fontana Hilton. Feel that hotel name sake Conrad Hilton would be doing a slow roll in his grave if he saw it. However, by trail standards quite the deluxe accommodations. A heated flush toilet, hot water, a shower (?), running water outside the shelter and a gravel picnic area. The shower was so gross, even by trail standards, that I choose only the bandana bath option. Just wet and soap the bandana and hit the worst spots.
Had a real surprise. As I was taking off my boots for the day, always a good feeling, someone plopped his butt down next to me invading my personal space! Turned around and saw it was James of James and Amy from Neel's Gap -two weeks back. Seems Amy (now Paisley) developed a severe foot infection and they had to take three days off to let the antibiotics kick in. James is now Mr. Giggle-Fitz. Some how I think we will cross trails again.

Brown Fork Gap Shelter Mile 153.1

Met my first South Bound Through hikers, SoBo's. they started in Maine on August 14, 2012. They took some time off for Christmas and Thanksgiving but have only 153.1 miles to Springer Mountain GA.
After another hard rain over night I hit the trail for Fontana Dam. A clear morning and some inspiring landscapes. Still lots of mud and strange trail conditions. Many rock falls that are difficult to negotiate. I try to be extra careful as one miss step will lead to a nasty fall. Can you find the best way through this rock slide?

Switch Backs

Switch backs are a common way to traverse one up or down a steep hillside. As a hiker, you learn to really dislike them. At the base of the mountain they tend to be long and gradual. Higher on the mountain they get shorter and steeper. The major issue with them is that you get a false sense of completion when you reach a transition area where you switch directions. You see daylight and think you have reached the top only to have your elated state shattered with the realization that you ain't there yet.
Jacob's Ladder is a series of switchbacks that rise almost 900 feet in a half mile. Difficult in the best weather but I had tto climb Jacob's ladder in the rain. Joy unbridled!

Easter Sunday Mile 144

This was my worst day on the trail. After all the rain last night the trail was a muddy mess. Slippery hardly describes the condition. Oozing goo is close. Footing is difficult both uphill and down. On top of that my Camelback hydration bag started to leak as I was preparing to leave the shelter soaking my dry clothes in my pack. After three weeks on the trail my mental state was not the best. Could not come to grips with why I was doing this. The more I walked the more I fretted about my condition, the cold, the wet and the futility of climbing up one hill only to trudge down another. Feeling pretty sorry about ME.
Then it happened. At Stecoah Gap, mile 150.7 a couple had set up a Trail Magic stop. Grilled hot dogs, soda, fresh fruit and homemade oatmeal raisin cookies that were to die for. Then the realization
The clarity I needed. Here was a couple who chose to hand out snacks on a cold windy Easter Sunday to unknown hikers. They were real Trail Angels. They may never know how they made me feel. Truly an act of kindness.

Seven Miles Uphill

First, just so you don't think I fell off the face of the earth, cell phone reception has been spotty to non-existent. So, I will to catch everyone up to date.
Left the NOC, mile 137.3, after a breakfast at the River's End restaurant. Faced a seven mile climb up a three thousand foot elevation change to the next shelter. Since they were predicting rain, decided to opt out for the shelter rather than push on to the next campground. It rained hard almost all night. The shelter was a good choice.